Old San Juan is located on a small and narrow island which lies along the north coast, about 35 miles (56 km) from the east end of Puerto Rico, and is connected to the mainland of Puerto Rico by three bridges. It is bounded by the Atlantic Ocean to the north and to the south by San Juan Bay (Bahia de San Juan)—which lies between the city and the mainland. On a promontory (morro) about 100 feet (30 m) high, at the west end of the island and commanding the entrance to the harbor, rise the battlements of Fort San Felipe del Morro, and its lighthouse.
The San Antonio Channel (Caño de San Antonio) lies to the southeast, where the island of Old San Juan connects to the mainland through Santurce, by three bridges: Dos Hermanos (Ashford Avenue), G. Esteves (Ponce de León Avenue) and San Antonio (Fernández Juncos Avenue).
The city is characterized by its narrow, blue cobblestone streets, and flat-roofed brick and stone buildings, which date back to the 16th and 17th centuries—when Puerto Rico was a Spanish possession. Near Fort San Felipe del Morro, is the Casa Blanca, a palace built on land which belonged to the family of Ponce de León.
In 1508, Juan Ponce de León founded the original settlement, Caparra4 (named after the Province of Cáceres, Spain, birthplace of the then-governor of Spain's Caribbean territories, Nicolás de Ovando). The ruins of Caparra are known as the Pueblo Viejo sector of Guaynabo, behind the almost land-locked harbor just to the west of the present San Juan metropolitan area. In 1509, the settlement was abandoned and moved to a site which was called at the time "Puerto Rico" (meaning "rich port" or "good port"), a name that evoked that of a similar geographical harbor in the island of Gran Canaria, Canary Islands. The official settlement of this new town was marked by the establishment of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of San Juan in 1511, the first Catholic diocese to be established in the Americas,5 and by the construction of the first wooden iteration of its cathedral in 1513 together with the establishment of a Latin school by bishop Alonso Manso.67
In 1521, this new settlement was given its formal name of "Ciudad de Puerto Rico de San Juan Bautista", following the custom of christening the primary settlement of an island colony with both its formal town name and the name given by Christopher Columbus to the island, honoring John the Baptist.89 The settlement was also platted this same year, with many of its first streets and plazas being built at the time, such Calle del Cristo, Plaza de Armas and Plaza de la Catedral.10 Also constructed in 1521, Casa Blanca served as the first fortification of the settlement and residence of Juan Ponce de León and his descendants until the mid-eighteenth century.111213
Some of the first European establishment in the Western Hemisphere were also established in Old San Juan during the mid and second half of the16th century. Some of these include the Thomas Aquinas Convent (today the National Gallery of Puerto Rico) in 1523, Nuestra Señora de la Concepción Hospital in 1524, and the former Gothic stone cathedral building.14
The strategic position of Old San Juan in the context of the Caribbean and the Atlantic Ocean also made it a target for foreign attacks, which motivated the erection of a city wall between 1530 and 1560. Several fortresses and castles were also build during this time: La Fortaleza was built between 1533 and 1540, followed by the construction of the first battery at El Morro. Plans for the castle portion of San Felipe del Morro were made in 1584. Extensions, plus construction of El Cañuelo and El Boquerón forts, were made between 1599 and 1609. Complete circumvallation of the city was finally completed in 1641. Although several fortresses were built at the site during the time, it was not until 1771 when San Cristobal, the largest of the fortresses, was completed.15
By 1776, the population totaled 6000, half of which were soldiers. The garrison town of San Juan included 250 acres of military installations and 62 acres of public and private use. By 1781, the city's fortifications included 376 cannon. By 1876, 24,000 lived inside the walls of San Juan, encompassing 62 acres, and 926 buildings.16
Prior to the 19th century, the area outside the city walls occupying the east side of Old San Juan Island, was almost uninhabited. In 1838 the so-called area of Puerta de Tierra had a population of 168 residents, mainly of African descent.17 According to a census made in 1846, the population had risen to 223 inhabitants living in 58 houses. On March 3, 1865, the municipal government of San Juan approved a resolution promoting the city expansion across the Puerta de Tierra which included the plan for demolishing the city walls along the eastern side.18 On May 28, 1897, the wall demolition was officially started after a proclamation was issued by Queen Maria Christina.19 By the year 1899, the population of Puerta de Tierra had risen to 5,453; while the area comprising the old walled city had a civilian population of roughly 18,103 inhabitants.
During the late 1940s, disrepair in the old city was evident. The local authorities were considering development proposals for renovating the old city and incorporating modern architecture on new constructions. Anthropologist Ricardo Alegría vehemently advised against the idea of demolishing old colonial buildings in favor of contemporary building designs. He followed the example suggested by his father, a local civic leader who had successfully prevented the demolition of the Capilla del Cristo in favor of a traffic redesign. He advised mayor Rincón de Gautier in having local zoning laws changed to favor remodeling and the incorporation of Spanish colonial motifs in any new construction. This helped preserve the city's architectural profile, and has been a key to San Juan's current status as a tourist destination.
Luis Muñoz Marín, as a senator and later as governor of Puerto Rico, supported and implemented what became known as Operation Bootstrap, which included the development of the tourism industry. In 1948 the government invited one of the organizers of Colonial Williamsburg to lead its tourism development efforts.20 These efforts were further supported by the 1955 creation of the Institute of Puerto Rican Culture (Instituto de Cultura Puertorriqueña) head by Alegría. He sought legal and administrative changes that would allow for major remodeling efforts to be successful. At the time, most real estate in Old San Juan had devalued under appraised values because the city was perceived as unsafe (particularly because of building disrepair and social ills such as prostitution) and not profitable for business (because of rent control statutes, as well as the reluctance of commercial banks to fund remodeling). Under combined efforts by the institute and the Government Development Bank for Puerto Rico, "model" remodelings were made to show potential property owners how their renewed properties could look. Strict remodeling codes were implemented to prevent new constructions from affecting the common colonial Spanish architectural themes of the old city. As with other Operation Bootstrap projects, mainland corporate investors were lured in with tax breaks and other incentives. When a project proposal suggested that the old Carmelite Convent in San Juan be demolished to erect a new hotel, the Institute had the building declared a historic building, and asked that it be converted to a hotel in a renewed facility. As in other Operation Bootstrap projects, the Woolworth family was invited in 1957 to reconstruct the former convent (which had more recently been a low-rent apartment building and city garage) into the luxury Hotel El Convento.21 The Bank provided low interest loans to remodelers, and the government gave triple tax exemptions to commercial activities in the old city (they were exempted for a limited time, not only from property taxes and municipal taxes, but from income tax from activities generated in their properties as well). At least one retailer from the shopping district in Charlotte Amalie was given incentives to set up shop in the Calle del Cristo (the city's red light district during the early 1940s) in order to persuade other retailers to follow suit and somehow "clean up" the district. Potential developers were offered sketches of their properties after a remodeling, as to suggest which architectural elements to improve or change. The paradigm to reconstruct and renovate the old city and revitalize it has been followed by other cities in Latin America, particularly Havana, Lima and Cartagena de Indias.
The San Juan National Historic Site (Spanish: Sitio Histórico Nacional de San Juan) was established in 1949 to preserve historic fortifications in Old San Juan and the National Register of Historic Places listed it in 1966.22 Both that site and La Fortaleza (English: The Fortress) were then declared a single World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1983.23
In 1951, the broader area within the old city walls became the first listing of the Puerto Rico Register of Historic Sites and Zones as the Zona Antigua Histórica Casco de San Juan (English: Historic Old Town Area of San Juan).24 In 1972, the same area was recognized by the National Register of Historic Places as the San Juan Historic Zone (Spanish: Zona Histórica de San Juan).25 In 2012, the National Register increased the boundaries and renamed the district to Old San Juan Historic District (Spanish: Distrito Histórico del Viejo San Juan).26 Old San Juan was then designated a National Historic Landmark District in 2013.27
La Perla (Spanish for the pearl) is a former shanty town or informal settlement located along the northern section of the historic San Juan city walls. Originally the site of slaughterhouses, the area was later settled by freed slaves and non-white servants in the 18th century. In the 20th century the community grew to become a neighborhood of Old San Juan and its reputation has recently transformed from a dangerous place into a cultural hub. It has appeared on films, literature, TV shows and music videos.29
With its abundance of shops, historic places, museums,30 open air cafés, restaurants, colorful homes, tree-shaded plazas, and its old beauty and architectural peculiarity, Old San Juan is a main spot for domestic and international tourism.
The district is characterized by numerous public plazas, which are filled with local shops that sell traditional craftwork,3132 sculptures and typical musical instruments. Moreover, Old San Juan is known for its historical churches, such as San José Church and the Cathedral of San Juan Bautista, which contains the tomb of the Spanish explorer and first European to discover modern day Florida, Juan Ponce de León.
Tourists' main spot to visit at Old San Juan is Castillo San Felipe del Morro, a fort built by the Spaniards when settled on the Island. Besides the magnificent fort, tourists are drawn to La Perla, a colorful neighborhood outside of the historic city wall.
Old San Juan is one of the two barrios, in addition to Santurce, that made up the municipality of San Juan after 1864 and prior to 1951, in which the former independent municipality of Río Piedras was annexed.
The oldest parts of the district of Old San Juan remain partly enclosed by massive walls. Several defensive structures and notable forts, such as the Fort San Felipe del Morro, Castle of San Cristóbal, and el Palacio de Santa Catalina (also known as La Fortaleza), acted as the primary defense of the settlement which has been subjected to numerous attacks. La Fortaleza continues to serve also as the executive mansion for the Governor of Puerto Rico. Many of the historic fortifications are part of San Juan National Historic Site. Old San Juan's land area roughly correlates to the following subbarrios of barrio San Juan Antiguo: Ballajá, Catedral, Marina, Mercado, San Cristóbal, and San Francisco.
Old San Juan is the location for one of two transportation hubs serving Metropolitan San Juan. At one time, a free trolley provided limited service to Old San Juan seven days a week but is not available any longer. People get around the city on foot or by car.33 There have been plans to turn the historic district into a pedestrian-only zone, and to either rebuild the trolley system or build a new light-rail train system in the recent years.34
Old San Juan is the setting for films, books, song lyrics and music videos, including the following:
Rodriguez Morales, Luis M. (June 1971). "National Register of Historic Places Inventory - Nomination Form: Zona Histórica de San Juan (San Juan Historic Zone)". National Register of Historic Places. Retrieved September 23, 2024 – via National Archives. https://catalog.archives.gov/id/131518669 ↩
"Registro de Propiedades Designadas por la Junta de Planificación de Puerto Rico" [Registry of Properties Designated by the Puerto Rico Planning Board] (PDF). Puerto Rico Planning Board (in Spanish). San Juan, Puerto Rico: Puerto Rico Register of Historic Sites and Zones. December 7, 2022. p. 12. Retrieved September 23, 2024. https://jp.pr.gov/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/REGISTRO-OFICIAL-DE-SITIOS-Y-ZONAS-HISTORICAS-DESIGNADAS-Rev.-DIC-2022.pdf ↩
"La Fortaleza and San Juan National Historic Site in Puerto Rico". World Heritage Sites. Paris: UNESCO. 1983. #266. Retrieved September 23, 2024. https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/266/ ↩
EB-Guaynabo-Puerto-Rico Guaynabo; [with a history of Puerto Rico]; "Encyclopædia Britannica"; 2006; Britannica.com webpage; Text: names Caparra, the first Spanish settlement of Puerto Rico (1508). http://www.britannica.com/eb/article-9038345/Guaynabo ↩
Matovina, Timothy (March 4, 2016). "American Latino Theme Study: Religion (U.S. National Park Service)". NPS.gov Homepage (U.S. National Park Service). Retrieved July 30, 2019. https://www.nps.gov/articles/latinothemereligion.htm ↩
Mari Mut, José A. (2013-08-28). Los Pueblos de Puerto Rico y Las Iglesias de Sus Plazas [The Pueblos of Puerto Rico, and the Churches of its Plazas] (PDF) (in Spanish). pp. 202–203. Archived (PDF) from the original on 2020-12-14. Retrieved 2021-09-16. http://edicionesdigitales.info/PueblosPR/pueblospr.pdf ↩
"Hispanic Firsts", By; Nicolas Kanellos, publisher Visible Ink Press; ISBN 0-7876-0519-0; p.40 /wiki/ISBN_(identifier) ↩
"Historia de San Juan de Puerto Rico" (in Spanish). Vive San Juan. 2006. Archived from the original on May 1, 2007. Retrieved 2007-05-02. https://web.archive.org/web/20070501112503/http://www.vivesanjuan.com/historia.htm ↩
Marley, David (2005). Historic Cities of the Americas. Santa Barbara, CA: Bloomsbury Academic. pp. 185+. ISBN 1576070271. 1576070271 ↩
San Juan: Historia Ilustrada de su desarrollo urbano, 1508-1898 - Aníbal Sepúlveda Rivera. San Juan 1989, Capítulo 8, pp. 292. Centro de Investigaciones CARIMAR. ↩
(in Spanish) San Juan: Historia Illustrada de su desarrollo urbano, 1508–1898 - Aníbal Sepúlveda Rivera. San Juan 1989. Centro de Investigaciones CARIMAR. ↩
(in Spanish) San Juan Extramuros: Iconografia para su estudio - Aníbal Sepúlveda, Jorge Carbonell. San Juan 1990. Centro de Investigaciones CARIMAR / Oficina Estatal de Preservación Histórica. ↩
(in English)A Conservation Master Plan for the World Heritage Site of Old San Juan; Prof. Martin E. Weaver http://web2.uvcs.uvic.ca/courses/crm/rhcp/sanjuan.htm ↩
Van Middeldyk, R.A. (1903). Brumbaugh, Martin (ed.). The History of Puerto Rico: From the Spanish Discovery to the American Occupation. D. Appleton and Company. pp. 109–111. ISBN 9781548743741. Retrieved 6 March 2019. {{cite book}}: ISBN / Date incompatibility (help) 9781548743741 ↩
The Forts of Old San Juan. Washington, D.C.: Division of Publications, National Park Service, U.S. Dept. of the Interior. 2018. pp. 67, 69, 72. ISBN 9780912627625. 9780912627625 ↩
"Historia de Puerta de Tierra". Johnny Torres Rivera. http://www.puertadetierra.info/indicehist.asp ↩
"Breve Historia del Desarrollo Urbano de la Ciudad de San Juan Bautista, Ciudad Capital de Puerto Rico". Legislatura Municipal de San Juan. Archived from the original on 2009-04-13. Retrieved 2009-08-04. https://web.archive.org/web/20090413041834/http://home.coqui.net/asamblea/sanjuandu.htm ↩
Merrill, Dennis (2009). Negotiating Paradise: U.S. Tourism and Empire in Twentieth-Century Latin America. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press. p. 186. ↩
Hotel El Convento. History of Hotel El Convento. ↩
"National Register Information System – San Juan National Historic Site (#66000930)". National Register of Historic Places. National Park Service. November 2, 2013. Retrieved September 23, 2024. https://npgallery.nps.gov/AssetDetail/NRIS/66000930 ↩
Pabón-Charneco, Arleen (2012). "National Register of Historic Places Registration Form: Distrito Histórico del Viejo San Juan/Old San Juan Historic District" (PDF) (291 MB). National Register of Historic Places. Retrieved September 23, 2024 – via National Archives. https://catalog.archives.gov/id/131518671 ↩
Pabón-Charneco, Arleen; de la Vega, Caridad; Jacobs, James A. (September 7, 2012). de la Vega, Caridad; Jacobs, James A. (eds.). "National Historic Landmark Nomination: Old San Juan Historic District/Distrito Histórico del Viejo San Juan" (PDF). National Park Service. National Historic Landmarks Program. Retrieved September 23, 2024. https://npshistory.com/publications/nr-forms/pr/old-san-juan.pdf ↩
"The Legend of La Rogativa". Tour Old San Juan. 2013-01-25. Retrieved 2021-09-23. https://www.touroldsanjuan.com/the-legend-of-la-rogativa/ ↩
"La Perla en Puerto Rico, el renacimiento de uno de los barrios más peligrosos del Caribe". BBC News Mundo (in Spanish). 2015-12-17. Retrieved 2021-09-23. https://www.bbc.com/mundo/noticias/2015/12/151213_la_perla_puerto_rico_san_juan_estigma_calle_13_amv ↩
Golden Tales: Myths, Legends, and Folktales from Latin America. Scholastic Inc. September 18, 2001. p. 70 – via Internet Archive. old san juan. https://archive.org/details/goldentales00lulu ↩
Philpott, Don (February 28, 2003). Landmark Puerto Rico. Hunter Publishing, Inc. ISBN 9781901522341 – via Google Books. 9781901522341 ↩
Ring, Trudy; Watson, Noelle; Schellinger, Paul (November 5, 2013). The Americas: International Dictionary of Historic Places. Routledge. ISBN 9781134259304 – via Google Books. 9781134259304 ↩
"Currently not running! Hop Aboard the Free Trolley in Old San Juan | Puerto Rico Day Trips Travel Guide". www.puertoricodaytrips.com. https://www.puertoricodaytrips.com/free-trolley-old-san-juan/ ↩
Roger. "Tren Liviano / Light Rail Train (LRT) – Bahía Urbana | Railroads of Puerto Rico / Ferrocarriles de Puerto Rico". Retrieved 2021-09-22. http://ferrocarrilespr.rogerseducationalpage.com/?p=2990 ↩
"En Mi Viejo San Juan - Marc Anthony Sings En Mi Viejo San Juan". San Juan Puerto Rico. 2014-08-09. Retrieved 2020-10-06. https://sanjuanpuertorico.mystagingwebsite.com/en-mi-viejo-san-juan/ ↩
Scott, A. O. (2011-10-27). "In San Juan, on the Road to Gonzo (Published 2011)". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2020-10-06. https://www.nytimes.com/2011/10/28/movies/hunter-s-thompsons-rum-diary-with-johnny-depp-review.html ↩
Stavans, Ilan (2020). Poets, philosophers, lovers: on the Writings of Giannina Braschi. Aldama, Frederick Luis, O'Dwyer, Tess. Pittsburgh, Pa.: Pittsburgh. ISBN 978-0-8229-4618-2. OCLC 1143649021. 978-0-8229-4618-2 ↩
Braschi, Giannina. (2011). United States of Banana. Las Vegas, NV: AmazonCrossing. ISBN 978-1-61109-067-3. OCLC 760912360. 978-1-61109-067-3 ↩
"'We Feel Forgotten': In Storm-Battered Home Of Musical Hit, Help Comes 'Despacito'". NPR.org. Retrieved 2020-10-06. https://www.npr.org/2017/10/03/555147455/in-puerto-ricos-storm-battered-la-perla-help-comes-despacito-slowly ↩