Also aid climbing grade.
The technical difficulty grading system for aid climbing (both for "original" and an adapted version for "new wave"), which goes: A0, A1, A2, A3, A4, A5 and up to A6 (for "new wave"). See Also V-thread.
A type of anchor used in abseiling especially in winter and in ice climbing.
Also assisted braking device.
A term used to describe a progress capture device or a self-locking device such as a Also rappelling.
A technique by which a climber descends via a fixed rope that is firmly attached to a fixed anchor point, which is also known as an "abseil station". See Also angel jumping, deepelling and rap jumping.
A type of abseiling technique performed face first; used for military purposes.
Also tube chock.
A hollow telescopic tubular device manufactured by Trango for use as protection in off-width crack climbing.
Also bivy or bivvy.
A crude overnight camp or shelter on a climbing route; on a sheer vertical wall, a portaledge can be used.
bivy-bag
A lightweight garment or sack offering full-body protection from wind and rain, which is used in a bivouac.
Also hip belay.
Where the belayer uses their body, and not a mechanical belay device, to increase braking force when belaying; usually involves wrapping the rope around their waist or hip.
boinking
A sport climbing technique to get back onto the wall after falling by pulling on the rope to un-weight it, allowing the belayer to take in the slack quickly; avoids the fallen climber having to return to the ground.
bollard
A large block of rock or ice that is used as an anchor to construct a belay.
Also hanger.
A piece of metal that is pre-attached to a bolt (i.e. before the bolt is screwed in) into which quickdraws can be clipped.
Also bomber.
A highly secure anchor, or a particularly solid handhold or foothold.
Also clean aid climbing grade.
The technical difficulty grading system for aid climbing that is "clean" (i.e. no hammered pitons or bolts), which goes: C0, C1, C2, C3, C4, and C5; also has an A-grade equivalent of the "original" aid grades for "new wave".
Also twist-lock carabiner, bent-gate carabiner.
An aluminum loop with a spring-loaded gate used to attach various load-bearing climbing devices together.
carrot bolt
Also bash-in.
An Australian term for a metal hex-headed Also chockstone.
A stone wedged in a crack that can be threaded to create a point of protection in traditional climbing.
chop route
British term for a traditional climbing route with very poor protection where any fall could be fatal. See Also nut key or nut tool.
A device for removing jammed protection equipment, especially nuts, from a route.
climbing area
A region with numerous climbing routes. See Also clipping in.
The process of attaching the rope to protection (usually via a carabiner), to belay devices, or to other anchors. See tie in.
clipstick
See Also head.
A small nut on a loop of wire with a head made of metal (often copper), soft enough to deform during placement, which is often with a hammer; commonly used in aid climbing as a point of placement, remaining fixed in-situ after placement.
Also crimper.
A hold which is only just big enough to be grasped with the tips of the fingers.
crux
The most difficult portion of a climb; often the Also dry-tool climbing grade.
Where mixed climbing routes are completed in fully dry conditions (i.e. no ice or snow), the "M" suffix of the M-grade is swapped for a "D".
dab
A term in bouldering for touching the ground, crash pad, spotter, or hold from other route.
Also psicobloc.
Free solo climbing on an overhanging route over a body of water to absorb any fall.
Also rappel device.
A mechanical device that enables a controlled descent on a fixed rope; belay devices can be descenders.
Also dex.
A drug to treat Also half ropes.
In lead climbing where two thinner ropes are used instead of a single rope to manage rope drag. Compare Also rope drag.
Friction from the rope running over the rock and through the lower protection. See Also drilled pitons.
A type of anchor used in soft rock instead of bolts that uses a "baby angle" (piton) hammered into a drilled hole, which some think is better in soft rock than bolts that can crack the rock.
drive-by
A deadpoint where one arm crosses over the other to reach a hold that is above and to the side.
drop knee
Also egyptian.
Also knee drop.
Also lolotte.
An advanced Also DTS.
Type of dry-tooling with additional restrictions and particularly a prohibition on yaniro moves.
Also shock absorber.
A piece of protection equipment used in via ferrata climbing to absorb the energy of the arrest of any fall. See Also siege tactics.
Using teams of support people (e.g. support climbers, sherpas, and/or equipment porters, etc.), and equipment (e.g. fixed rope, base camps, etc.) in helping the lead climbers reach the eventual summit; opposite of alpine style.
Also figure-eight loop.
A knot commonly used to tie in a climber's harness to the climbing rope.
finger jam
Also finger lock.
A type of jam using the fingers in a crack.
Also FA.
The first successful ascent of a new route by any means, including aid climbing (i.e. not via free climbing).
Also FFA.
The first ascent of a new route without aid, following the free climbing criteria of a redpoint.
Also FFFA.
The first female to complete a free ascent of a route that has already had an FFA.
fist jam
A type of jam using the hand.
Also Fontainebleau grade.
The French grade system for bouldering, which goes: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6A, 6B, 6C, 7A, 7B, 7C, .... , to 9A; with the American V-grade system, is the most common worldwide boulder-grading system. Font grades are often confused with French grades.
foot jam
Also heel-to-toe jam.
A technique of jamming the foot into a large crack by twisting so that the heel and toes touch the sides.
flapper
The tearing of skin and flesh due to friction with sharp or rough surfaces.
Also free soloing.
Climbing without any type of aid or any form of climbing protection.
Also greenpointing.
Ascending a sport climbing route but only using traditional climbing protection (e.g. Also decking.
Where a lead climber falls and hits the ground, either because their protection failed (e.g. zipper fall), the runout was too great, or the belayer failed to arrest or hold the rope.
Also finger board.
A training device to increase the climber's arm and finger strength. See Also hangdogging.
To hang on the rope, or a piece of protection, after falling, and then start reclimbing without returning to the ground.
Also HACE.
A severe and often fatal form of Also HAPE.
A severe form of Also climbing harness.
A sewn nylon webbing load-bearing device that is worn around the climber's waist and thighs, and to which the climbing rope, and other load-bearing climbing devices, can be attached.
Also headpointing.
Top-roping a traditional climbing route before lead climbing it to practice the moves. See Also heel-toe cam.
A combination of a toe hook and heel hook to hold the body onto the climbing route.
hero loop
A short runner made of 5- to 8-mm cord tied in to a loop. Commonly used for self-belay during rappel, escaping a belay, and in crevasse rescue.
Also a hex.
A protective device consisting of an eccentric hexagonal nut attached to a wire loop.
Also high ball.
A boulder problem over circa 5–10-metre (16–33 ft) high, where falling is dangerous.
Also fifi hook and cam hook.
A mechanical piece of Also technical axe.
A specialized elaboration of the modern ice axe that is used in modern advanced ice climbing.
Also jumaring.
A type of mechanical ascender, and the generic term for ascending a fixed rope using a mechanical ascender.
Also aluminum ladder.
Lightweight rigid aluminum ladders are used in expedition style mountaineering to cross crevasses or on difficult sections as a form of aid climbing support (this can also be done with flexible Also liebacking.
Climbing an edge by side-pulling with both hands and using opposing friction for the feet.
Also leading.
A form of climbing in which a lead climber clips their belay rope into protection equipment as they ascend.
Also leader.
The individual ascending the route in lead climbing; the other person is the belayer.
leader fall
A lead climber fall while lead climbing; will be Also mixed climbing grades.
Part of the mixed climbing system for grading the technical difficulty of mixed climbing routes, which goes: M1, M2, M3, M4, M5, M6, and up to M14. See also Also Italian hitch or friction hitch.
A simple Also nut tool.
See Also PAS.
An adjustable attachment point from a climber to a fixed anchor, give them flexibility to perform other tasks.
Also snow picket.
A long, tubular rod driven into the snow to provide a makeshift anchor.
pinch hold
Also pinch.
A hold, which must be "pinched" between the fingers to use it.
pinkpoint
Lead climbing where the protection (e.g. quickdraws) are pre-installed. See also Also angle, beak, bong, knifeblade, lost arrow.
A flat or angled metal blade of steel for protection that incorporates a clipping hole for a carabiner or a ring in its body that is hammered into cracks; comes in a wide range of designs and types for different crack types and widths; common in aid climbing, big wall climbing, and alpine climbing. See also Also Whittaker wheeze.
Forcefully exhaling to facilitate O2/CO2 exchange at altitude.
problem
Also bouldering problem or boulder problem.
Used in bouldering to describe the sequence of moves to be overcome.
progress capture device
Also PCD.
A mechanical climbing device that allows the rope to move through it in only one direction, examples being the Petzl Micro Traxion or the Camp Lift; PCDs are used in many climbing tasks including gear hauling, Also projecting.
An attempt over time to climb a new (worldwide or personal) route or boulder problem as a "project".
Also pro.
Also gear.
Equipment for arresting lead climber falls, or to create anchors for abseils or belays. Examples are passive (bolts, copperheads, hexcentrics, ice screws, nuts, quickdraws, and skyhooks), and active (cams, friends, tricams).
Also climbing pulley.
The lightweight mechanical pully that has wide application in climbing including Also pumped.
The accumulation of metabolic waste products in the forearm(s) so that holding a basic grip becomes impossible.
Also draw, and extender.
A piece of climbing protection that is used to attach a running rope to an anchor or a bolt. See Also rebelay.
Secondary or intermediate fixed anchor point(s) along the length of a fixed rope (i.e. in addition to the main anchor at the top of the fixed rope) that is used to avoid edges that could increase rope wear.
rebolting
The replacement of older bolts on an existing bolted sport climbing route.
Also redpointing.
Free climbing a route by leading it after having failed it or practiced it beforehand (e.g. by hangdogging, headpointing, or top roping). A route climbed on the first-ever attempt (and no practice), it is an onsight or a flash. See Also RB.
A removable protection bolt, similar in concept to a sliding nut, but shaped to fit into a drilled hole; popular in aid climbing.
Also rigging board and bat plate.
A light metal plate with several holes that can be used as a multi-anchor device that several items can be attached to at a belay station, notable versions include the Petzl PAW.
ripped
Term to denote when a piece of protection failed and "ripped-out" of the rock. See Also plate hanger, wire hanger, or cinch hanger.
A piece of aid climbing equipment used by the lead climber to attach to bolt runner rivets in the rock. See also Also wall hammer.
A lightweight hammer with a short handle used for inserting pitons, bolts, and copperheads in aid climbing and big wall climbing. See also Also deep-water soloing grades.
Part of the deep-water soloing system for grading the objective danger difficulty of DWS climbing routes, which goes: S0, S1, S2, and S3. See also Also foot chip, chip, or micro.
A small climbing hold screwed onto the wall on a climbing wall.
Also self-belaying.
The act of using a mechanical device for belaying in solo climbing. See Also SLD.
A device used in solo climbing, and particularly Also scissor leg, Elvis legs, or disco knee.
The involuntary vibration of the leg due to fatigue and/or panic and stress.
shadow match
A rock climbing move to quickly switch hands on a hold that can only fit one hand at a time.
sharp end
The end of the rope that is attached to the lead climber, to denote the more serious activity they are undertaking compared to the belayer.
short fixing
An advanced big wall Also running belay.
An advanced technique in which two climbers move simultaneously upward, with the leader placing protection that the second removes as they advance. A protection capture device (PCD) may also be used.
Also take-in.
The act of taking the slack out of a rope; also a climbing command by a lead climber to the belayer.
talus
An area of large rock fragments on a mountainside where the rocks are stable and not loose like scree.talon hookA type of three-pronged climbing hook used for securing the climber to a horizontal edge in the rock face. Each prong contains a curved hook of differing widths for securing onto respective edge sizes when aid climbing.
tape
Also tying in.
To physically attach the harness to the climbing rope, usually via a figure-eight knot. See Also trad climbing or simply trad.
A style of lead climbing where protection is placed as the lead climber ascends; opposite of sport climbing.
trail rope
Also haul line.
A big wall climbing technique where the lead climber carries an additional static rope (in addition to their dynamic climbing rope) that hangs (or "trails") behind them as they ascend; the trail rope enables the belayer to pass equipment to the leader during the ascent, and for the leader to haul up equipment as the belayer ascends.
Also UIAA scale.
The UIAA grade system for rock climbing, which goes: ... VI, VII, VIII, IX, X, XI, .... , to XII; is less common than the French grade system or the American YDS grade system, but still used in Germany and parts of Eastern Europe.
Also undercut.
A downward hold which is gripped with the palm of the hand facing upwards.
undercling pull
After a stein pull is completed, the undercling pull is a mixed climbing technique for continuing to use the hold to gain upward momentum by using the hold to pull into the rock; requires a lot more energy than a stein pull.
undercut
See Also Hueco scale.
A grading system for bouldering problems invented by Also Abalakov thread.
A type of abseiling point used especially in winter and in ice climbing.
verglas
A thin coating of ice that forms over rocks when rainfall or melting snow freezes, which is hard to climb on as there is insufficient depth for crampons to have penetration. See also Also Klettersteig.
An alpine route where protection is from permanent steel fixed ropes or chains, with progression aided by artificial steel steps or ladders; commonly found in the Also ice climbing grades.
Part of the ice climbing system for grading the technical difficulty of ice climbing routes, which goes: WI1, WI2, WI3, WI4, WI5, WI6, and up to WI13. See also Also gear rip-out.
A traditional climbing ground fall where all the protection gear fails in sequence (i.e. opens like a "zip").
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