Skin whiteners can help achieve lighter skin tones, but many of them contain harmful ingredients like the steroid clobetasol propionate, inorganic mercury (mercuric chloride or amalgamated mercury), glutathione (an antioxidant traditionally used in cancer treatment), and the organic compound hydroquinone. Skin lighteners' main health risks are linked to (i) The overuse of topical clobetasol, which can cause systemic steroid effects from daily usage, especially on broad skin regions; and (ii) concealed mercury content, which can lead to mercury poisoning depending on individual susceptibility. Many skin whiteners contain a toxic form of mercury as the active ingredient. Their use, therefore, may harm a person's health and is illegal in many countries.
Skin lightening creams have commonly contained mercury, hydroquinone, and corticosteroids. Because these compounds can induce both superficial and internal side effects, they are illegal to use and market in multiple nations. However, various chemical studies indicate that these compounds continue to be used in sold cosmetic products, though they are not explicitly declared as ingredients.
Prolonged usage of mercury-based products can ultimately discolor the skin, as mercury will accumulate within the dermis. Mercury toxicity can cause acute symptoms such as pneumonitis and gastric irritation. However, according to a study by Antoine Mahé and his colleagues, mercurial compounds can also contribute to long-term renal and neurological complications, the latter of which includes insomnia, memory loss, and irritability.
Other studies have explored the impact of hydroquinone exposure on health. Hydroquinone rapidly absorbs into the body via dermal contact; long-term usage has been found to cause nephrotoxicity and benzene-induced leukemia in the bone marrow. A study by Pascal del Giudice and Pinier Yves indicated that hydroquinone usage is strongly correlated with the development of ochronosis, cataracts, patchy depigmentation, and contact dermatitis. Ochronosis can lead to lesions and squamous cell carcinomas. While hydroquinone has not been officially classified as a carcinogen, it can metabolize into carcinogenic derivatives and induce genetic changes in the form of DNA damages.
Corticosteroids have become some of the most commonly incorporated lightening agents. Long-term usage over large areas of skin may promote percutaneous absorption, which can produce complications such as skin atrophy and fragility, glaucoma, cataracts, edemas, osteoporosis, menstrual irregularities, and growth suppression. A 2000 study performed in Dakar, Senegal, indicated that chronic usage of skin lighteners was a risk factor for hypertension and diabetes.
Chemically lightened skin is more highly susceptible to sun damage and dermal infection. Long-term users of skin bleachers can easily develop fungal infections and viral warts. Pregnant users may also experience health complications for both them and their children.
Skin whiteners typically range widely in pricing. Olumide attributes this to the desire to portray whitening as financially accessible to all. These products are marketed to both men and women, though studies indicate that, in Africa, women use skin bleachers more than men do. A study by Lester Davids and his colleagues indicated that nations in Africa present high rates of usage for skin bleachers. Though many products have been banned due to toxic chemical compositions, Davids found that regulating policies are often not strictly enforced.
In India, the sales of skin lightening creams in 2012 totaled around 258 tons, and in 2013 sales were about US$300 million. By 2018, the industry for lightening cosmetics in India had achieved a net worth of nearly $180 million and an annual growth rate of 15%. As of 2013, the global market for skin lighteners was projected to reach $19.8 billion by 2018, based on sales growth primarily in Africa, Asia, and the Middle East.
In the United Kingdom, many skin whiteners are illegal due to possible adverse effects. Such products are frequently still sold even after shops have been prosecuted. Trading standards departments lack the resources to deal with the problem effectively.
According to Yetunde Mercy Olumide, advertisements for skin lighteners often present their products as stepping stones to attain greater social capital. For example, representatives of India's Glow & Lovely cosmetics asserted that their products allowed for socioeconomic mobility, akin to education.
In some parts of Africa, people with lighter skin are thought to be more attractive and likely to find more financial success than those with darker skin tones.
Studies have linked paler skin to achieving increased social standing and social mobility. A 2011 study found that in Tanzania, residents choose to bleach their skin to appear more European and impress peers and potential partners. Both advertisements and consumers have suggested that whiter skin can enhance individual sexual attractiveness. In 2011, sociologist Margaret Hunter noted the influence of mass-marketing and celebrity culture emphasizing whiteness as an ideal of beauty. A 2018 study found that lighter skin tones in both men and women in India improved their prospects for marriage.
Other motivations for skin whitening include desiring softer skin and wanting to conceal discolorations arising from pimples, rashes, or chronic skin conditions. Individuals with depigmenting conditions such as vitiligo have also been known to lighten their skin to achieve an even skin tone.
Upregulation of tyrosinase caused by tyrosinase inhibitors. Several skin whitening agents, including tyrosinase inhibitors, have been found to cause an increase in the expression of tyrosinase, which by itself would increase melanin synthesis.
Melanosomes, along with the melanin they contain, are transferred from melanocytes to keratinocytes when keratinocytes are low in the epidermis. Keratinocytes carry the melanosomes with them as they move toward the surface. Keratinocytes contribute to skin pigmentation by holding the melanin originating in melanocytes and inducing melanogenesis through chemical signals directed at melanocytes. The transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes is a necessary condition for the visible pigmentation of the skin. Blocking this transfer is a mechanism of action of some skin whitening agents.
Some compounds are known to destroy melanocytes; this mechanism of action is often used to remove the remaining pigmentation in cases of vitiligo.
Early skin whitening practices were not well-documented. Skin whitening is a practice that has made its way across the entire globe with a multitude of cultures adopting the practice under various ideologies. Commonly, the practice has been marketed towards women under the pretense that porcelain skin was the ideal representation of beauty and status. The first recorded practices of skin whitening can be traced back to over 200 B.C. across a multitude of civilizations that utilized natural sources of ingredients to facilitate the production of skin whitening substances.
Various historians argue that, across cultures, skin lightening became a desirable norm due to implications of wealth. Although the majority methods of which the skin whitening process is undertaken have been deemed unsafe due to various side effects, they are still used for a range of purposes, including the desire for improvement of one's socioeconomic status as well as the socialization in some cultures of one's perceived inferiority based on having darker or lighter skin than others.
This process through which perceived inferiority can be exercised physically can be looked back on through a foundational perspective of the "Nigrescence Theory". This theory explains the distinction of one's own socialized identity through various stages, and the pigmentation of the skin that someone is born with that is associated with the socialization process within a culture. More specifically, out of the four stages associated with this theory, the first one, named the "pre-encounter" stage, highlights the underlying concept one not associating themselves with their own culture or values due partly to the misinformation one has been taught to believe and therefore seeks validation and worthiness from those who have misinformed that person.
The history of skin whitening in East Asia dates to ancient times. To be light in an environment in which the sun was harsh implied wealth and nobility because those individuals were able to remain indoors while servants had to labor outside.
Ancient Asian cultures also associated light skin with feminine beauty. "Jade" white skin in Korea is known to have been the ideal as far back as the Gojoseon era. Japan's Edo period saw the start of a trend of women whitening their faces with rice powder as a "moral duty". Chinese women valued a "milk white" complexion and swallowed powdered pearls towards that end.
Skin-lightening practices had achieved great importance in East Asia as early as the 16th century. Similar to early European cosmetics, white makeup was reported to cause severe health problems and physical malformations. In Japan, samurai mothers who used lead-based white paint on their faces often had children who exhibited symptoms of lead toxicity and stunted bone growth. Japanese nobility, including both men and women, often applied white lead powder to their faces prior to the Meiji restoration.
Following the Meiji restoration, men and women reserved white lead makeup and traditional attire for special occasions. In China, Korea, and Japan, washing one's face with rice water was also practiced, as it was believed to naturally whiten skin. Historians also noted that as East Asian women immigrated to the United States, immigrant women engaged in skin lightening more frequently than women who did not immigrate.
Advertisements were a large influence in the marketable appeal of skin whitening in China and Taiwan. Skincare products that are recognized to protect the skin included chemicals that assist in skin whitening. These products were marketed and promoted as the solution to appearing young forever. Skincare products have been predominantly created to serve as anti-aging to women in China and Taiwan of all ages.
Nina Jablonski and Evelyn Nakano Glenn both assert that skin whitening in many South and Southeast Asian nations such as the Philippines grew in popularity through these nations' histories of European colonization. Multiple studies find that preferences for lighter skin in India were historically linked to both the Indian caste system and centuries of outside rule by light-skinned nations. In the Philippines and many Southeast Asian countries, lighter skin was associated with higher social status. Historians indicate that the social hierarchies in the Philippines encompasses a spectrum of skin tones due to intermarriages between indigenous populations, East Asian settlers from Japan and China, and European and American colonists.
In South Asia, the colour of one's skin determined social status as it implied the circumstances of one's positionality. While pale skin suggested being away from the sun, darker skin signified the result of working in external conditions. With colonial influence from Britain's occupation, there was a distinction in superiority and inferiority. With those in power attributing pale complexions, there was an association tied among class and position. The South Asian film industry was a contributing factor from colonialism in the reinforcement of these narratives. Turmeric was a used ingredient in lightening skin tone complexion to be seen as desirable.
According to historian Kathy Peiss, skin whitening among black American women had been documented starting in the mid-nineteenth century. Historians credited the increased marketing of skin whiteners to the culture of the Jim Crow era, as black Americans faced continued social and legal restrictions. Cosmetic advertisements directed at black consumers often framed resulting lighter complexions as cleaner and better. Simultaneously, cosmetic and beauty magazines often published criticisms of black women who used skin bleachers, arguing that they appeared unnatural and fraudulent.
Various studies have linked the prevalence of skin whitening in Latin American nations to their histories and legacies of colonization and slavery. Witness accounts in colonial Jamaica reported that women practiced "flaying" and "skinning" on themselves, using astringent lotions to appear lighter. Caribbean creole women were also observed to treat their skin with cashew nut oil, which burned the external layers of skin.
Historian Lynn Thomas attributes the initial popularity of these skin whiteners to the socially desired implications of limited outdoor labor, sexual relationships with lighter-skinned partners, and lighter-skinned heritage. Starting in the 1970s, the South African government established regulations for skin whitening products, banning products that contained mercury or high levels of hydroquinone. By the 1980s, critiques of skin whitening had become incorporated into the anti-apartheid movement, given skin whitening's adverse consequences on health and its social implications of colorism.
Skin whitening practices in several other African countries increased following the onset of independence movements against European colonial rule. Maya Allen attributed this to the increased flow of European products and commercial influence into colonized regions. Several historians have suggested that the increased prevalence of skin whitening in "the Global South" is potentially tied to both precolonial notions of beauty and post-colonial hierarchies of race.
Several chemical substances have been found to be effective in skin whitening, but some have been proven or suspected to be toxic. This includes compounds containing mercury, which can cause neurological and kidney problems. These products also contain collagen, which can be harmful to the skin. It is present in day creams and beauty masks. Collagen is an insoluble fibrous protein that is too large to penetrate the skin, thus it can clog pores.
Among the ingredients, hydroquinone is also commonly found and is responsible for multiple side effects. It can interfere with the reagents used in capillary blood glucose meters, artificially raising blood glucose levels.
In 1997, in Paris, the French police dismantled a network involved in the illegal trafficking of skin lightening products, primarily targeting Congolese migrants. Such products represent a significant market despite their health risks. Users resort to preparations containing mercury or bleach, or products containing corticosteroids or quinine. The Saint-Louis Hospital in Paris had to establish a specialized department to deal with the skin disorders caused by skin bleaching.
Italics have been preserved whenever they appear in quotations. Text between square brackets are additional notes not present in the source.
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Olumide, Yetunde M.; Akinkugbe, Ayesha O.; Altraide, Dan; Mohammed, Tahir; Ahamefule, Ngozi; Ayanlowo, Shola; Onyekonwu, Chinwe; Essen, Nyomudim (April 2008). "Complications of chronic use of skin lightening cosmetics". International Journal of Dermatology. 47 (4): 344–353. doi:10.1111/j.1365-4632.2008.02719.x. ISSN 0011-9059. PMID 18377596. S2CID 8159382. /wiki/Doi_(identifier)
Mahé, Antoine; Ly, Fatimata; Perret, Jean-Luc (2005). "Systemic complications of the cosmetic use of skin-bleaching products". International Journal of Dermatology. 44 (s1): 37–38. doi:10.1111/j.1365-4632.2005.02810.x. ISSN 1365-4632. PMID 16187958. S2CID 34311111. /wiki/Doi_(identifier)
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Mahé, Antoine; Ly, Fatimata; Perret, Jean-Luc (2005). "Systemic complications of the cosmetic use of skin-bleaching products". International Journal of Dermatology. 44 (s1): 37–38. doi:10.1111/j.1365-4632.2005.02810.x. ISSN 1365-4632. PMID 16187958. S2CID 34311111. /wiki/Doi_(identifier)
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Nagar, Itisha (April 2018). "The Unfair Selection: A Study on Skin-Color Bias in Arranged Indian Marriages". SAGE Open. 8 (2): 215824401877314. doi:10.1177/2158244018773149. ISSN 2158-2440. https://doi.org/10.1177%2F2158244018773149
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"Skin-whitening creams: The battle against illegal products". BBC. 6 August 2018. Retrieved 15 September 2018. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-45085674
Olumide, Yetunde Mercy (2016-10-06). The vanishing black African woman: a compendium of the global skin-lightening practice. Mankon, Bamenda, Cameroon. ISBN 978-9956-763-56-6. OCLC 961248923.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) 978-9956-763-56-6
Olumide, Yetunde Mercy (2016-10-06). The vanishing black African woman: a compendium of the global skin-lightening practice. Mankon, Bamenda, Cameroon. ISBN 978-9956-763-56-6. OCLC 961248923.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) 978-9956-763-56-6
Fihlani, Pumza (January 2013). "Africa: Where black is not really beautiful". BBC News. https://www.bbc.com/news/world-africa-20444798
Glenn, Evelyn Nakano, ed. (2009). Shades of difference: why skin color matters. Stanford, Calif.: Stanford University Press. ISBN 978-0-8047-7099-6. OCLC 646829010. 978-0-8047-7099-6
Glenn, Evelyn Nakano, ed. (2009). Shades of difference: why skin color matters. Stanford, Calif.: Stanford University Press. ISBN 978-0-8047-7099-6. OCLC 646829010. 978-0-8047-7099-6
Hunter, Margaret (2011). "Buying Racial Capital: Skin-Bleaching and Cosmetic Surgery in a Globalized World" (PDF). Journal of Pan African Studies. 4. http://jpanafrican.org/docs/vol4no4/HUNTER%20Final.pdf
Lewis, Kelly M.; Robkin, Navit; Gaska, Karie; Njoki, Lillian Carol (March 2011). "Investigating Motivations for Women's Skin Bleaching in Tanzania". Psychology of Women Quarterly. 35 (1): 29–37. doi:10.1177/0361684310392356. ISSN 0361-6843. S2CID 71613149. /wiki/Doi_(identifier)
Shroff, Hemal; Diedrichs, Phillippa C.; Craddock, Nadia (2018-01-23). "Skin Color, Cultural Capital, and Beauty Products: An Investigation of the Use of Skin Fairness Products in Mumbai, India". Frontiers in Public Health. 5: 365. doi:10.3389/fpubh.2017.00365. ISSN 2296-2565. PMC 5787082. PMID 29410952. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5787082
Lewis, Kelly M.; Robkin, Navit; Gaska, Karie; Njoki, Lillian Carol (March 2011). "Investigating Motivations for Women's Skin Bleaching in Tanzania". Psychology of Women Quarterly. 35 (1): 29–37. doi:10.1177/0361684310392356. ISSN 0361-6843. S2CID 71613149. /wiki/Doi_(identifier)
Charles, Christopher A. D. (2011-12-01). "Skin Bleaching and the Prestige Complexion of Sexual Attraction". Sexuality & Culture. 15 (4): 375–390. doi:10.1007/s12119-011-9107-0. ISSN 1936-4822. S2CID 146278461. /wiki/Doi_(identifier)
Hunter, Margaret (2011). "Buying Racial Capital: Skin-Bleaching and Cosmetic Surgery in a Globalized World" (PDF). Journal of Pan African Studies. 4. http://jpanafrican.org/docs/vol4no4/HUNTER%20Final.pdf
Nagar, Itisha (April 2018). "The Unfair Selection: A Study on Skin-Color Bias in Arranged Indian Marriages". SAGE Open. 8 (2): 215824401877314. doi:10.1177/2158244018773149. ISSN 2158-2440. https://doi.org/10.1177%2F2158244018773149
"The dark side of skin lightening: An international collaboration and review of a public health issue affecting dermatology". thesciencedirect.com. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2352647520301416
"Performing whiteness: skin beauty as somatechnics in South Korean stardom and celebrity". tandfonline.com. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/19392397.2021.1912258
"Where Does the Asian Obsession With White Skin Come From?". thediplomat.com. https://thediplomat.com/2019/12/where-does-the-asian-obsession-with-white-skin-come-from/
Maycock, Matthew William (2017-04-03). "Looking tājā 'fresh'; skin whitening, and emergent masculinities in far-west Nepal". Contemporary South Asia. 25 (2): 153–166. doi:10.1080/09584935.2017.1321619. ISSN 0958-4935. S2CID 151955288. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/09584935.2017.1321619
Lewis, Kelly M.; Robkin, Navit; Gaska, Karie; Njoki, Lillian Carol (March 2011). "Investigating Motivations for Women's Skin Bleaching in Tanzania". Psychology of Women Quarterly. 35 (1): 29–37. doi:10.1177/0361684310392356. ISSN 0361-6843. S2CID 71613149. /wiki/Doi_(identifier)
Julien, Seneschal (2014). "Accelerating bleaching in vitiligo: balancing benefits versus risks". Experimental Dermatology. 23 (12): 879–880. doi:10.1111/exd.12508. PMID 25039467. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/exd.12508
Ebanks, Jody P.; Wickett, R. Randall; Boissy, Raymond E. (2009). "Mechanisms Regulating Skin Pigmentation: The Rise and Fall of Complexion Coloration". Int. J. Mol. Sci. 10 (9): 4066–4087. doi:10.3390/ijms10094066. PMC 2769151. PMID 19865532. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2769151
Gruber, James V.; Holtz, Robert (2013). "Examining the Impact of Skin Lighteners In Vitro". Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity. 2013: 1–7. doi:10.1155/2013/702120. PMC 3655678. PMID 23738040. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3655678
"The transcriptional level is the first stage by which the expression of tyrosinase and related melanogenic enzymes may be modulated. Influential in this process, the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) is a basic helix-loop-helix leucine zipper transcription factor that regulates melanocyte cellular differentiation as well as the transcription of melanogenic enzymes (tyrosinase, TYRP1, and TYRP2) and melanosome structural proteins (MART-1 and PMEL17) [references omitted]."[42]
"The transcriptional level is the first stage by which the expression of tyrosinase and related melanogenic enzymes may be modulated. Influential in this process, the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) is a basic helix-loop-helix leucine zipper transcription factor that regulates melanocyte cellular differentiation as well as the transcription of melanogenic enzymes (tyrosinase, TYRP1, and TYRP2) and melanosome structural proteins (MART-1 and PMEL17) [references omitted]."[42]
Smit, Nico; Vicanova, Jana; Pavel, Stan (2009). "The Hunt for Natural Skin Whitening Agents". Int. J. Mol. Sci. 10 (12): 5326–5349. doi:10.3390/ijms10125326. PMC 2801997. PMID 20054473. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2801997
Many papers have described the signaling pathways affecting melanogenesis and other functions of melanocytes. The following reviews are suggested reading (all of which are available online at no cost):Smit, Vicanova, Pavel (2009).[44] For a description with emphasis on physiology, see Yamaguchi, Hearing (2009)[45] or Kondo (2011).[46] An extensive and detailed review was written by Slominski et al. (2004).[47]
Chen, Hongxiang; Weng, Qing Y.; Fisher, David E. (2014). "UV Signaling Pathways within the Skin". J. Invest. Dermatol. 134 (4): 2080–2085. doi:10.1038/jid.2014.161. PMC 4102648. PMID 24759085. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4102648
Rodríguez, Carlos Iván; Setaluri, Vijayasaradhi (2014). "Cyclic AMP (cAMP) signaling in melanocytes and melanoma". Arch. Biochem. Biophys. 563: 22–7. doi:10.1016/j.abb.2014.07.003. PMID 25017568. /wiki/Doi_(identifier)
Yamaguchi, Yuji; Hearing, Vincent J. (2009). "Physiological factors that regulate skin pigmentation". BioFactors. 35 (2): 193–199. doi:10.1002/biof.29. PMC 2793097. PMID 19449448. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2793097
Chen, Hongxiang; Weng, Qing Y.; Fisher, David E. (2014). "UV Signaling Pathways within the Skin". J. Invest. Dermatol. 134 (4): 2080–2085. doi:10.1038/jid.2014.161. PMC 4102648. PMID 24759085. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4102648
Rodríguez, Carlos Iván; Setaluri, Vijayasaradhi (2014). "Cyclic AMP (cAMP) signaling in melanocytes and melanoma". Arch. Biochem. Biophys. 563: 22–7. doi:10.1016/j.abb.2014.07.003. PMID 25017568. /wiki/Doi_(identifier)
Lee, Ai-Young; Noh, Minsoo (2013). "The regulation of epidermal melanogenesis via cAMP and/or PKC signaling pathways: insights for the development of hypopigmented agents". Arch. Pharm. Res. 36 (7): 792–801. doi:10.1007/s12272-013-0130-6. PMID 23604723. S2CID 35429951. /wiki/Doi_(identifier)
Slominski, Andrzej; Tobin, Desmond J.; Shibahara, Shigeki; Wortsman, Jacobo (2004). "Melanin Pigmentation in Mammalian Skin and its Hormonal Regulation". Physiol. Rev. 84 (4): 1155–228. doi:10.1152/physrev.00044.2003. PMID 15383650. /wiki/Doi_(identifier)
Chen, Hongxiang; Weng, Qing Y.; Fisher, David E. (2014). "UV Signaling Pathways within the Skin". J. Invest. Dermatol. 134 (4): 2080–2085. doi:10.1038/jid.2014.161. PMC 4102648. PMID 24759085. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4102648
Chen, Hongxiang; Weng, Qing Y.; Fisher, David E. (2014). "UV Signaling Pathways within the Skin". J. Invest. Dermatol. 134 (4): 2080–2085. doi:10.1038/jid.2014.161. PMC 4102648. PMID 24759085. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4102648
Marzuka-Alcalá, Alexander; Gabree, Michele Jacobs; Tsao, Hensin (2014). "Melanoma Susceptibility Genes and Risk Assessment". Molecular Diagnostics for Melanoma. Methods in Molecular Biology. Vol. 1102. pp. 381–93. doi:10.1007/978-1-62703-727-3_20. ISBN 978-1-62703-726-6. PMID 24258989. 978-1-62703-726-6
Rodríguez, Carlos Iván; Setaluri, Vijayasaradhi (2014). "Cyclic AMP (cAMP) signaling in melanocytes and melanoma". Arch. Biochem. Biophys. 563: 22–7. doi:10.1016/j.abb.2014.07.003. PMID 25017568. /wiki/Doi_(identifier)
Law, Matthew H.; MacGregor, Stuart; Hayward, Nicholas K. (2012). "Melanoma Genetics: Recent Findings Take Us Beyond Well-Traveled Pathways". J. Invest. Dermatol. 132 (7): 1763–74. doi:10.1038/jid.2012.75. PMID 22475760. https://doi.org/10.1038%2Fjid.2012.75
Nelson, Andrew A.; Tsao, Hensin (2009). "Melanoma and genetics". Clin. Dermatol. 27 (1): 46–52. doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2008.09.005. PMID 19095153. /wiki/Doi_(identifier)
Sturm, Richard A. (2009). "Molecular genetics of human pigmentation diversity". Hum. Mol. Genet. 18 (R1): R9–17. doi:10.1093/hmg/ddp003. PMID 19297406. https://doi.org/10.1093%2Fhmg%2Fddp003
Slominski, Andrzej; Tobin, Desmond J.; Shibahara, Shigeki; Wortsman, Jacobo (2004). "Melanin Pigmentation in Mammalian Skin and its Hormonal Regulation". Physiol. Rev. 84 (4): 1155–228. doi:10.1152/physrev.00044.2003. PMID 15383650. /wiki/Doi_(identifier)
"In the skin, melanocytes are situated on the basal layer, which separates the dermis and epidermis. Approximately 36 keratinocytes surround one melanocyte. Together, they form the so-called epidermal melanin unit. The melanin produced and stored inside the melanocyte in the melanosomal compartment is transported via dendrites to the overlaying keratinocytes."[44]"Each melanocyte resides in the basal epithelial layer and, by virtue of its dendrites, interacts with approximately 36 keratinocytes to transfer melanosomes and protect the skin from photo-induced carcinogenesis. Furthermore, the amount and type of melanin produced and transferred to the keratinocytes with subsequent incorporation, aggregation, and degradation influences skin complexion coloration [reference omitted]."[42]Wu, Hammer (2014) describe the number of keratinocytes per melanocyte as above 40.[55]
Research about the mechanism of melanosome transfer has been reviewed by Wu, and Hammer (2014).[55]
Many papers have described the signaling pathways affecting melanogenesis and other functions of melanocytes. The following reviews are suggested reading (all of which are available online at no cost):Smit, Vicanova, Pavel (2009).[44] For a description with emphasis on physiology, see Yamaguchi, Hearing (2009)[45] or Kondo (2011).[46] An extensive and detailed review was written by Slominski et al. (2004).[47]
Wu, Wufeng; Hammer, John A. (2014). "Melanosome transfer: It is best to give and receive". Curr. Opin. Cell Biol. 29: 1–7. doi:10.1016/j.ceb.2014.02.003. PMC 4130791. PMID 24662021. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4130791
Smit, Nico; Vicanova, Jana; Pavel, Stan (2009). "The Hunt for Natural Skin Whitening Agents". Int. J. Mol. Sci. 10 (12): 5326–5349. doi:10.3390/ijms10125326. PMC 2801997. PMID 20054473. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2801997
Ebanks, Jody P.; Wickett, R. Randall; Boissy, Raymond E. (2009). "Mechanisms Regulating Skin Pigmentation: The Rise and Fall of Complexion Coloration". Int. J. Mol. Sci. 10 (9): 4066–4087. doi:10.3390/ijms10094066. PMC 2769151. PMID 19865532. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2769151
References about PAR2 and its role in skin pigmentation: Kim et al. (2016),[56] Choi et al. (2014),[57] Wu, Hammer (2014),[55] Ando et al. (2012),[58] Ando et al. (2010).[59]
References about PAR2 and its role in skin pigmentation: Kim et al. (2016),[56] Choi et al. (2014),[57] Wu, Hammer (2014),[55] Ando et al. (2012),[58] Ando et al. (2010).[59]
van den Boorn, Jasper G.; Melief, Cornelis J.; Luiten, Rosalie M. (2011). "The Monobenzone-induced depigmentation: from enzymatic blockade to autoimmunity". Pigment Cell Melanoma Res. 24 (4): 673–9. doi:10.1111/j.1755-148X.2011.00878.x. PMID 21689385. S2CID 44353799. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/51234742
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Iftekhar, Noama; Zhitny, Vladislav Pavlovich (2021). "Overview of Skin Bleaching History and Origins". Dermatology. 237 (2): 306–308. doi:10.1159/000509727. ISSN 1018-8665. PMID 32814332. S2CID 221200520. https://www.karger.com/Article/FullText/509727
Iftekhar, Noama; Zhitny, Vladislav Pavlovich (2021). "Overview of Skin Bleaching History and Origins". Dermatology. 237 (2): 306–308. doi:10.1159/000509727. ISSN 1018-8665. PMID 32814332. S2CID 221200520. https://www.karger.com/Article/FullText/509727
Jablonski, Nina G. (2012). Living Color: the Biological and Social Meaning of Skin Color. Berkeley: University of California Press. ISBN 978-0-520-95377-2. OCLC 808348571. 978-0-520-95377-2
Jablonski, Nina G. (2012). Living Color: the Biological and Social Meaning of Skin Color. Berkeley: University of California Press. ISBN 978-0-520-95377-2. OCLC 808348571. 978-0-520-95377-2
Jablonski, Nina G. (2012). Living Color: the Biological and Social Meaning of Skin Color. Berkeley: University of California Press. ISBN 978-0-520-95377-2. OCLC 808348571. 978-0-520-95377-2
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Olumide, Yetunde Mercy (2016-10-06). The vanishing black African woman: a compendium of the global skin-lightening practice. Mankon, Bamenda, Cameroon. ISBN 978-9956-763-56-6. OCLC 961248923.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) 978-9956-763-56-6
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